Monthly Archives: August 2011

R/C car handling – An introduction to vehicle dynamics

I’ve found this link a while ago and read it a few times ever since. It’s a real pleasure to read and the animations/images are very good. I’d recommend this to everyone who’s into RC racing.

Big ups for Bruno ‘Elvo’ Heremans who has written the guide!


Here’s the link:


Jörn Neuann takes 2011 4WD Euros with DEX410

“Team Durango’s DEX410 wins the 2011 4WD European Championship with Jörn Neumann!

Jörn Neumann put in a great performance at this years electric off road Europea Championships to overcome the disappointment of finishing 2nd at the World Championships – battling against some of the top drivers in the world and taking the 2011 European Championships on the dirt track at Pau, Southern France.   Qualifying 2nd overall in the shortened schedule after heavy rain washed out the previous day, Jörn lead the Team Durango charge, with team mates Hupo Hönigl qualifying right behind in 3rd and Martin Kreil 9th. The field was strong, with two former/current World Champions and 6 former/current European Champions in the A.  Jörn took the opening two legs of the A-Final to take the overall win in a close fought battle with Lee Martin and Neil Cragg and become the 2011 4WD European Champion.

jorngridJorn Neumann hupocarHupo Honigl

Having already won the title, Jörn sat out the third leg of the A and Hupo took up the fight – taking second which he held to the line for 4th overall, with Martin Kreil finishing 8th overall.

Jörn won the title in 2004 driving a prototype Durango – hand built by Gerd Strenge – at the  tender age of just 13. Another great result for Team Durango after a very sucessful year – proving again that the DEX410 is the 4WD to beat.

hupojornHupo & Jorn’s DEX410 buggies kreilgridMartin Kreil

Congratulations to Jörn on his spectacular performance!  We’ll have more details and setups available as soon as possible.

Thanks to James Helliwell for the use of the photos.”


Source: Durango []

Mugen MBX6 battery mod

You’ve probably seen pictures of Battle’s car from the neo race of the euro’s where the battery was placed in the front of the car. Of course I was wondering why he did that so I talked to a few Mugen guys that know more about it. I thought that he did that to gain more steering, although the Mugen has plenty of steering. As I could expect, this wasn’t the case. The reason why he moved the battery to the front of the car, is to get less aggressive weight transfer off-power. Since the weight is already in the front, it can’t be transfered to the front while breaking.

I haven’t tried this mod yet, but I will as soon as I have some for free practice. It’s very easy to mount the battery in the front. Just drill 6 holes in the mud guards and secure the battery with 3 zip ties.

Here are some pictures of Battle’s car:

Mugen MBX6 basic astroturf setup

Here’s my base setup that I run on astroturf tracks in Belgium and Holland. If the track is really smooth, fit 3.2mm rollbars in the front and rear and perhaps try a little less droop. Also use the long front chassisbrace if the track is dry. The cars short one is really messing with your setup and causes too much traction rolling. The short brace may come in handy when the track is wet and your suffering front grip.

The setup also works on electric cars, but the front shock oil should be increased by 50cts.

Here’s my setup:

Mugen MBX6 hinge pin mod

The mbx6 uses a solid system to keep the A arms in place, but it’s pretty complicated to acces the diffs. It is possible to acces the diffs with the front and rear end mounted on the chassis, but you have to flip the hinge pins. After doing that, it’s quite annoying to losen the nuts because it’s hard to grab the pins with pliers.

I shaved my pins with a dremel so I can grab them with a 6mm wrench. Now it’s possible to acces the diffs in less then 2 minutes. And changing toe-in/anti-squat became a lot easier with this mod.

It took me about 5-10mins to do all the pins with a dremel (and a steady hand)


Front (either you’ll have to shorten the pin a little or use a dremel to sand down the bumper)