The Mugen shocks are great with the standard parts, but you can get them smoother with a simple mod.
Here are the parts that are needed for the mod:
- TLR5074 – Team Losi Racing Low Friction Shock Shaft O-Rings (8)
- JQP-R-0010 – JQ Products 3.5x7x1.5mm Shock Bushing (8)
- 5 x 7 x 0.1mm or 5 x 7 x 0.2mm shims (optional)
What you basically do is change out the Mugen O-rings with the Losi low friction ones and the middle Mugen spacer with the 1.5mm JQ spacer.
This is what it will look from top to bottom:
- Losi low friction o-ring
- JQ 1.5mm spacer
- Losi low friction o-ring
- Stock Mugen spacer (the flanged one)
The Losi o-rings aren’t always 100% leak free.But it’s easy to solve that. First you could try to submerge the o-rings for a few days (3-5 days) in shock oil so they swell up. If they still leak, you can fit 1 or more 5 x 7 x 0.1mm shims over the flanged Mugen spacer to squeeze the o-rings a little more.
It’s important that you don’t use any bigger shims, because the o-rings won’t get squeezed if the shim is bigger than the plastic spacer. (thicker shims are allowed, but none that are bigger in diameter)
Now turn the bottom cap down, fill them and enjoy your leak free super smooth Mugen shocks 😉
Here are a few pictures of what you need to get rid of the leaking if it occurs. Try to use as little shims as possible, because more shims add more resistance. Just enough until they stop leaking.
This nice radio tray allows you to use the forwarded battery config.
You can order the tray here
I’ve found this link a while ago and read it a few times ever since. It’s a real pleasure to read and the animations/images are very good. I’d recommend this to everyone who’s into RC racing.
Big ups for Bruno ‘Elvo’ Heremans who has written the guide!
Here’s the link: http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
You’ve probably seen pictures of Battle’s car from the neo race of the euro’s where the battery was placed in the front of the car. Of course I was wondering why he did that so I talked to a few Mugen guys that know more about it. I thought that he did that to gain more steering, although the Mugen has plenty of steering. As I could expect, this wasn’t the case. The reason why he moved the battery to the front of the car, is to get less aggressive weight transfer off-power. Since the weight is already in the front, it can’t be transfered to the front while breaking.
I haven’t tried this mod yet, but I will as soon as I have some for free practice. It’s very easy to mount the battery in the front. Just drill 6 holes in the mud guards and secure the battery with 3 zip ties.
Here are some pictures of Battle’s car:
The mbx6 uses a solid system to keep the A arms in place, but it’s pretty complicated to acces the diffs. It is possible to acces the diffs with the front and rear end mounted on the chassis, but you have to flip the hinge pins. After doing that, it’s quite annoying to losen the nuts because it’s hard to grab the pins with pliers.
I shaved my pins with a dremel so I can grab them with a 6mm wrench. Now it’s possible to acces the diffs in less then 2 minutes. And changing toe-in/anti-squat became a lot easier with this mod.
It took me about 5-10mins to do all the pins with a dremel (and a steady hand)
Front (either you’ll have to shorten the pin a little or use a dremel to sand down the bumper)