Mugen Seiki has released a new set of pistons. The size of the holes are the same size as on the normal white pistons, but the new pistons have tapered holes. This means that they should give a faster rebound while maintaining the same damping characteristics.
This nice radio tray allows you to use the forwarded battery config.
You can order the tray here
The setup was pretty good in the wet conditions.
Battle was spotted at the Bittydesign contest with a new battery tray . I think this one is custom made, but it would be nice from Mugen if they release an optional radiotray.
You’ve probably seen pictures of Battle’s car from the neo race of the euro’s where the battery was placed in the front of the car. Of course I was wondering why he did that so I talked to a few Mugen guys that know more about it. I thought that he did that to gain more steering, although the Mugen has plenty of steering. As I could expect, this wasn’t the case. The reason why he moved the battery to the front of the car, is to get less aggressive weight transfer off-power. Since the weight is already in the front, it can’t be transfered to the front while breaking.
I haven’t tried this mod yet, but I will as soon as I have some for free practice. It’s very easy to mount the battery in the front. Just drill 6 holes in the mud guards and secure the battery with 3 zip ties.
Here are some pictures of Battle’s car:
Here’s my base setup that I run on astroturf tracks in Belgium and Holland. If the track is really smooth, fit 3.2mm rollbars in the front and rear and perhaps try a little less droop. Also use the long front chassisbrace if the track is dry. The cars short one is really messing with your setup and causes too much traction rolling. The short brace may come in handy when the track is wet and your suffering front grip.
The setup also works on electric cars, but the front shock oil should be increased by 50cts.
Here’s my setup: http://cl.ly/9LQU
The mbx6 uses a solid system to keep the A arms in place, but it’s pretty complicated to acces the diffs. It is possible to acces the diffs with the front and rear end mounted on the chassis, but you have to flip the hinge pins. After doing that, it’s quite annoying to losen the nuts because it’s hard to grab the pins with pliers.
I shaved my pins with a dremel so I can grab them with a 6mm wrench. Now it’s possible to acces the diffs in less then 2 minutes. And changing toe-in/anti-squat became a lot easier with this mod.
It took me about 5-10mins to do all the pins with a dremel (and a steady hand)
Front (either you’ll have to shorten the pin a little or use a dremel to sand down the bumper)